A new book talks about the rich legacy of Zoroastrian fire temples in Udwada, Gujarat

An evening walk through the town gives one an opportunity to stop and greet the mobeds (ordained priests) who have made Udwada their home for many generations. In their flowing white muslin jamas (robes), their heads covered in paghris (turbans), and a padan of fine mull cloth covering the nose and mouth, they serve the divine fire several times a day. They are also often requested to pray for the souls of departed family members and conduct ceremonies in gratitude for celebratory events.

Most of the permanent residents of Udwada are members of the nine families who have been serving as boiwalas (priests who tend to the fire) at the Iranshah Atash Behram for generations. Ervad Kekobad Mogul belongs to one of these nine families and is the seventh generation of a family to make Udwada their home. Today, he is the most experienced boiwala, having spent seventy years bowing to the revered fire five times a day. “My family has been serving the Iranshah since the Maratha regime. The earliest was Ervad Bhikha Dastur Rustom,” says Ervad Mogul.

Dressed in white always, the octogenarian navigates his way to the Iranshah Atash Behram every morning on his trusted bicycle, and claims that the power...

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